If the soon-to-be Barrio restaurant in Bellevue is anything like its twin in Seattle, Eastsiders should begin clearing their Friday nights. With a dash of cilantro and a twist of lime, this upscale Mexican restaurant will add a little cha-cha-cha to downtown Bellevue.
Barrio is a fusion of Latin and Northwest flavors specializing in gourmet Mexican favorites and exotic Latin cocktails. Owners Larry and Tabitha Kurofsky, who introduced the Eastside to Purple Cafe and Wine Bar six years ago, took a cultural jump with Barrio, bringing street-side Mexican tacos to a wine-sipping, haute couture clientele. Yet the name Barrio itself, which means neighborhood in Spanish, is an open invitation to all.
Unlike most Mexican restaurants, which typically serve enough food on one plate for two, Barrio offers guests an ensemble of smaller bites. And this is exactly the point. The dining experience at Barrio is not about the entree, it’s about experimentation. It’s about dexterity. It’s a Latin dance between flavors and drink.
Inspired by the Spanish Albarino white wine that we ordered, I decided to begin with the Sea Scallop Ceviche. Marinated in mango, serrano chile and red onion, the ceviche, a citrus-marinated seafood appetizer popular from Mexico to Bolivia, was a wonderful complement to the wine. A bit pricy at $11, yet perfect to savor.
Before my guest and I knew it, our small tabletop was an artist’s palate of antojitos; roasted tomatillo serrano salsa, fresh guacamole, fire roasted tomato habanero, seared sea scallops and a hefty chile relleno. The color dazzled my eyes, the flavors woke up a corner of my tongue asleep since my last vacation.
Each small dish was presented in style: the seared sea scallops dressed with a soffrito of acorn squash, yam and spanish chorizo; the individual salsas and guacamole with an exotic side of plantain and yucca chips; and the Chile Relleno – oh the Chile Relleno! Ensconced in a golden corn flour crust, the green chile swelled with a butternut squash manchego filling, with habanero oil and creme drizzled on top.
All together our four antojitos cost a little over $30. With half a bottle left of wine, we ordered two more items: the Pork Cheek Tamale and one of Barrio’s specialty tacos; the Smokey Pork Shoulder. The tamale could have come from the kitchen of any home in Mexico; the corn textured to perfection, the spicy pork soaked in a salsa negro. As for the Smokey Pork Shoulder taco, two bites and it was gone. Beautiful as it was, three of these a’la carte tacos will still not be enough for a hungry diner. Prepare to order a salad or antojito on the side.
Although tempted by the menu’s Xocalati chocolate-covered churro, I had to pass on dessert. Instead I leaned back, basking still from the sensuous flavors and wine, and took in the scene. The open kitchen offered a thrilling glimpse into the kitchen of Barrio; cooks tossing oil and veggies into the air, sharply-dressed servers spinning plates off their wrists, and – perhaps the most memorable site – a lovely Mexican grannie, her hair pulled back with a traditional scarf, kneading tortilla dough as if she’d been doing it for centuries.
If nothing else, Barrio does authentic well. Indeed, it’s perhaps as close as Bellevue will get to welcoming a true Latino neighbor. Welcome to the neighborhood, Barrio.
Elizabeth Celms is a writer for the Mercer Island Reporter. She can be contacted at 206-232-1215.
