By Andy Perdue and Eric Degerman
Every few years, it seems, a new wine variety becomes all the rage. Right now in the Pacific Northwest, that grape is Malbec.
In 2009, Wine Press Northwest reviewed 64 Malbecs from more than two dozen producers in the Pacific Northwest, primarily Washington. While this isn’t a grape that will ever reach Merlot levels, it is definitely carving out a niche amid wine lovers.
Here are some Northwest Malbecs we’ve tasted recently:
l Otis Kenyon Wines 2006 Malbec, Horse Heaven Hills, $36: Walla Walla veteran Dave Stephenson poured this production off Phinney Hill into all new French oak for 18 months, and the results drive you back to the glass. Barrel notes of chocolate, cinnamon and cedar merely accent the fruit of boysenberry, black cherry and raspberry, both in the aromas and on the palate.
l Martin-Scott Winery 2007 Malbec, Columbia Valley, $25: A gold medal from the San Francisco Chronicle hangs around the neck of this bottle by East Wenatchee winemaker Mike Scott. It carries a nice amount of oak in the aromas, backed by black cherries, plums, boysenberries, mocha and minerality. Blackberries join the black cherry components on the spicy palate, followed by a bag of Aussie black licorice. Acidity hangs out beyond the edge of chocolaty tannins.
l El Corazon Winery 2008 Super Nova Malbec, Rattlesnake Hills, $21: Walla Walla native Spencer Sievers received inspiration while working at Reininger Winery, and he’s proven to be a quick study with his own lots, including this one via Kolibri Vineyard. Big blueberry aromas are joined by violets and opulent oak hints of Reese’s Pieces, cigar box and green peppercorns. Blueberry and boysenberry flavors provide a youthful smoothness, and there’s remarkable weight, backed by cracked black pepper.
l Vin du Lac of Chelan 2006 Barrel Select Malbec, Yakima Valley, $40: Snipes Canyon Vineyard supplied just enough grapes for Larry Lehmbecker to trickle out two barrels’ worth of this lesser-known Bordeaux variety. Its expressive nose includes Smucker’s raspberry jam, Chukar Cherry, Constant Comment tea, green willow bark and Graham cracker. Seductive may indeed best describe the presentation of jammy plums and boysenberry on the palate, with a return of chocolate, warm cherries and Graham cracker.
l Watermill Winery 2007 Estate Malbec, Walla Walla Valley, $28: Winemaker Andrew Brown and our 2010 Oregon Winery to Watch don’t disappoint with this production from two estate parcels – its namesake vineyard and McClellan. First comes opulent oak aromas of white chocolate, tobacco leaf and tar, but there’s huge black fruit and a puff of chalkboard dust. Friggin’ dynamite is the well-balanced drink of black-cap raspberry and black cherry. There’s a stream of coffee all through the background, while the tannins are of blackberry seed.
Andy Perdue and Eric Degerman are the editors of Wine Press Northwest, a quarterly consumer wine magazine. For more info, go to www.winepressnw.com.
